I didn´t have much time so it had to be a “turbo-tour” to the Sognefjord this time. After some planning and a few telephone calls I knew where and when to go. After checking the weather report I was optimistic regarding the weather. The forecast at “yr.no” looked good with sun and clear blue skies predicted from mid-day the next day.
Train along the Bergen Railway
Due to the weather forecast I chose to wear shorts, I put on my rucksack and cycled down to the local train towards Oslo. From Oslo I took the night express train towards Bergen. The bicycle was delivered in the goods wagon as I had ordered a “ticket” for it in advance. The train passed Finse at 1222 metres, which is the highest point on the Bergen Railway. Immediately after Finse we arrived at Myrdal Train Station (865.5 metres above sea level) and I left the train here at 05:00 hrs.
Cycling down the Flåmsdalen Valley
It was dark and cold with fog and drizzling rain but the summer wasn´t over and I was still wearing my shorts! I started the bicycle tour at 05:30 hrs down the last part of Rallarvegen (the Navvies Road) towards the Flåmsdalen Valley. There was a magical atmosphere in the dark. The waterfalls were frothing and roaring, the forest with it’s numerous trees were covered with moss. The air was fresh and cold. I was completely alone. Wonderful! The zigzag path down towards the Flåmsdalen Valley was steep, slippery and rocky but it turned out well and I was soon down in the main valley.
Down by the fjord
The Flåmsdalen Valley is wild and beautiful with it’s steep mountains and vertical waterfalls. The path had now become a road and the twenty kilometres from Myrdal to Flåm were an easy ride. The road is more or less downhill or flat all the way and at 08:30 hrs I arrived at Flåm, the end point of the bicycle tour. At 09:00 hrs I boarded the boat towards Gudvangen. It sailed out the Aurlandsfjord and into the Nærøyfjord and two hours later I arrived at Gudvangen after a great boat trip along two of the most spectacular fjords in the world.
Boat across the fjord
I had arranged in advance to be picked up by Kjetil in his boat at Gudvangen. He helps people who need conveyance over the fjord, and I was informed about him when I called the Tourist Information at Flåm. Kjetil and his boat took me to Bleiklindi, a good starting point for walking the Old Postal Road to Styvi six kilometres further out the Nærøyfjord. I had a lengthy break at the Quay at Bleiklindi. The weather was cloudy when I arrived but when I started the walk later, at 13:00 hrs, the sun from clear blue sky was shining brightly. The forecast from “yr.no” had been correct!
Walking the Old Postal Road along the Nærøyfjord
I have been kayaking in the Nærøyfjord several times before but I have never walked this path and seen the fjord from land. This was a fantastic experience to see the fjord from another perspective. The Nærøyfjord was like a painting, with new motif’s turning up almost every step I took. Most of the people I saw were either in boat, canoe or kayak, but I also met a few on land. The boat traffic had increased since last time I was here, probably due to status as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
At Odnes I had a break near the outlet of the river Odneselvi. I was drinking cold clear water from the river while enjoying the view towards the fjord, the mountains, the boats and the kayaks passing by. Then the walk continued out the fjord, passing Klungrenes before I arrived at Styvi at 16:30 hrs. Styvi was the endpoint of the path, and the view from here is spectacular. Kjellaug and Botolv from Styvi are staying here during the summer, serving people waffles and coffee. They also have a farm museum with old tools etc. Styvi has got the smallest post office in Norway and they have their own postal code (5748 STYVI) despite the fact nobody lives there during the winter.
The last ferry from Gudvangen sailed out into the fjord. To inform them to stop at Styvi I turned on the flasher at the quay. I said goodbye to Kjellaug and Botolv and boarded the ferry. From the ferry, Styvi and the mountains became smaller and smaller and soon both Styvi and the Nærøyfjord disappeared when the ferry turned around Beitelen and into the Aurlandsfjord.
Back at Flåm I entered the train at the Flåm Railway. This railway is one of Norway’s most spectacular with its 1 to 18 gradient and 20 tunnels taking you up the Flåmsdalen Valley to Myrdal. After a short stop at the wild and beautiful Kjosfossen waterfall, the journey continued to the end station Myrdal which I had left 16 hours before. I had a few hours waiting at the station before I boarded the night train, this time in the opposite direction back towards Oslo. I was tired but also full of impressions and experiences. A fantastic day in Sogn was at its end. I could hardly bear waiting till next summer and my next chance to come back to my favourite place on earth.
This video is from a later hike along the Nærøyfjord
You can rent bike at Cafe Rallaren at Myrdal Train Station. Book in advance.
Book train and fjordcruise at Fjord Tours. This is part of Norway in a Nutshell.
Great information about Norway and the fjords at Visit Norway.
Weather Forecast for the Nærøyfjord area.